Your pool light burned out, and now the deep end goes black after sunset. Kids swim in water you cannot see into. That is the real reason to fix it this week.
Most pool lights are a one hour job for a careful owner. One step in that hour can hurt you, and it is the step people skip.
Kill the power, then prove you killed it
Find the breaker for the pool light and flip it off. Then press the test button on the GFCI outlet so the circuit trips too.
Now turn the light switch on. Nothing should happen. If the light still glows, stop right there and call a tech, because something is wired to the wrong breaker.
Texas treats this as licensed work. Repair on pool equipment here needs a RAIL license, and every tech on our pool repair crew holds one. We have been doing this in Victoria since 1968.
You do not drain the pool
This part surprises almost everyone. The light comes out of the water and the pool stays full the whole time.
Look for one screw at the top of the light ring. It is usually a flathead. Take it out and set it somewhere dry, because that screw is easy to lose in the grass.
Now pry the fixture loose, starting at the top. It will swing free.
Pull the cord up onto the deck
Lift the light out of the water and set it on a towel on the deck. You will feel the cord catch after a foot or so.
Spare cord sits coiled behind the wall, inside a housing called the niche. Pull it out slowly until the light reaches dry ground.
Do not yank it. The cord runs through a pipe called conduit, and a hard pull can crack the seal at the far end. That turns a bulb swap into a much bigger repair.
Open it up and check the gasket
Undo the clamp or the ring of screws and the lens lifts off.
Now look at the rubber gasket. Is it flat, cracked, or stiff? Replace it. A worn gasket lets water in, and your new bulb floods within a week.
Swap the bulb and match the old one for volts and watts. Those numbers are printed on the base. Guessing here is how people cook a new bulb on day one.
Should you switch to LED?
Many owners move to LED while the light is already on the deck. It costs more up front than a bulb.
An LED draws a fraction of the power and lasts years rather than seasons. If your light burns out every summer, the math works out fast. Ask us about colors too, because some LED units cycle through them.
Test it before you seal it
Put the lens back on and tighten it a little at a time, going around in a circle. Even pressure is what keeps the seal flat.
Set the light in the water but leave it resting on the wall ledge. Turn the breaker on and flip the switch.
If it lights up, shut it all off again. Coil the cord back into the niche, seat the light, and put that screw back in.
If it stays dark, your problem is the wiring and not the bulb. Our guide to pool repair warning signs covers what else points that way.
When to stop and call
Some of these jobs are not do it yourself jobs. Call us if you see any of this.
- Water sitting inside the old light.
- Rust on the screw, the ring, or the niche.
- The breaker trips when you switch it on.
- No GFCI on the circuit at all.
- Cord too short to reach the deck.
- Water so cloudy you cannot see the light from the edge.
That last one has an easy fix first. Clear the water, then judge the light. Start with what makes pool water cloudy.
A breaker that trips means power is going somewhere it should not, and in a pool that somewhere can be a swimmer. Do not keep resetting it to see what happens.
What it runs you
A bulb costs a few dollars and a gasket costs a little more. An LED unit is the expensive part, and you should never reuse a gasket that has gone hard.
Labor depends on what we find when the light comes up. A dry niche is quick work. A conduit full of water is a different job, and we will tell you that before we start.
Want to learn your own equipment? We run pool orientation and training in the off season.
Call us at (361) 575-5821 and describe what you are seeing. We can usually tell you over the phone which of the two you have.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to drain the pool to change the light?
No. The light lifts out of the water on its cord and sits on the deck while you work. The pool stays full.
Can a pool light electrocute you?
It can if the wiring or the ground is bad. That is why you cut the breaker and test the GFCI before you touch the fixture. If the breaker trips when you switch the light on, stop and call a licensed tech.
Why does my pool light keep burning out?
Water is usually getting in. A hard or cracked gasket is the common cause. A cracked lens and a wet niche do it too.
Can I put an LED in an old pool light?
Often yes, if you match the voltage of the old bulb. Check the base for the volts and watts before you buy.
How long does a pool light last?
A standard bulb tends to last a season or two. An LED usually runs much longer, which is why many owners switch when the old one dies.
The bulb is new and it still will not light. What now?
That points at the wiring, the switch, or the breaker rather than the bulb. Call us at (361) 575-5821 and we will trace it.
